My first costume is nearly complete! All that is left is the hat!
I have created an embroidered Jacket and Gilet (a sort of waistcoat) for my upcoming Der Schauspieldirektor photo shoot. In my last post I wrote all about the embroidery on this jacket and gilet, and in the post before that I shared the making of my corsets for this shoot.
I have to make all the costumes for my photo shoot, and I was inspired by a page in the book “Fashion” by the The Kyoto Costume Institute which features two fancy ladies’ outfits from the 1790s.
After all my embroidery was complete, I began sewing my jacket together. It came together very nicely. The jacket has a front layer of silk, fusible interfacing, one layer of cotton interfacing, and a lining layer of silk with fusible interfacing. The gilet has one more layer of cotton to secure the boning. This makes the outfit look a bit plush, and I believe I used much more interfacing than the original as seen above.
I have a nice pattern for period sleeves that I adapted from the Simplicity Pirate Coat #4923. I made up my own cuff pattern on the spot, and sewed the sleeves together.
After that was all put together, I set to work on the gilet. Because I drafted my own Gilet Pattern, and the inside had to be boned (“Do not ask for whom the bone bones, it bones for thee!” — Bender Bending Rodriguez), I had to decide how to best sew the garment together.
I had to decide which seams to sew together and how to turn the garment. The curved side seem, and front boning meant I could not easily sew it like a typical vest (in a Y shape). I decided to sew everything except the top arm seam, and turn everything through a tiny 3 inch hole. It took a while, and the boning had to be reset in the channels afterwards, because it twisted about during turning, but I think it was probably the best way to go about it.
Then I combined the gilet, added eyelets to lace it up, added buttons to everything, et voila!
My finished Jacket and Gilet!…
I knew at the embroidery stage that I hadn’t rounded the bottom of the gilet to get that unique “u” shape in the original, so mine comes more to a point. But since I wasn’t aiming for exact reproduction, I am quite all right with this.
When we tried the jacket on my aunt, I decided to add ties to the back of the jacket to keep the front flat against the bust without having to run a pin through the jacket.
When placing the buttons, I tried to cover as little embroidery as possible. I only had 16 cover buttons in the size used on the gilet front, though I think it could stand two more at the top (one on each side).
My lapels are a bit pointier than the original garment as well, and the gilet doesn’t open down the front as far. If I were striving for more reproduction quality, I would pay attention to these things next time. However, I think it looks very lovely.
I am pleased with this garment, and now it is on to the next one! I will go to work as soon as I finish this post!
I will have more posts on that next time! Stay tuned!
- Buy the Kyoto Costume Institute’s book “Fashion“.
Update – All the Posts From This Series:
- My first post follows the making of the corsets for both ladies.
- The second post takes a look at my embroidery process, and brief reviews of some of the movies I viewed while sewing.
- The third post shows how I put together my Jacket and Gilet.
- My fourth post shows the inspiration and final pigeon breasted drawstring-front jacket.
- The fifth post talks about the hats I created, and features a step-by-step construction process.
- The sixth post shows outtakes from our photo shoot and the ladies in costume.